Part 3 of Tales of SerendipitySome of my favourite stories of Sri Lanka are actually re-tellings of my Dad's adventures. Like the time he got drunk with the entire Blue Peter Summer Expedition team in a bar in the middle of nowhere. Or the time when, at another bar, he got chatting with a man who had an important job...
"In my village I own the only elephant," he said. "We keep it in the temple."
My dad nodded sagely. "Because it's a sacred animal?"
"No, because it's the only building big enough."
Obvious, really, when you think about it.
I did have my own adventures too, of course. One of the best things about being abroad as a child was that I got to experience all the fun stuff without the all the worries and petty concerns that my parents must have faced daily.
Our first house in Colombo was large and airy, with whitewashed walls, a roof terrace and a large walled garden. While it was a nice house, the area of the city it was in wasn't quite so pleasant. A large open drain ran alongside the street outside, and although our parents sheltered me and my brother from a lot of it, I get the distinct impression that it wasn't a particularly safe area of town. One event I did get to hear about involved a hawker who arrived at the door selling malaria vaccinations. My Mum turned him away. She later found out that this was a well known-scam. The vaccine didn't work and he'd probably only have had one syringe, which he would use for the whole street.
My Mum wasn't left on her own to deal with all this kind of stuff, though. The company had arranged for two locals to work for us: Sheila, who acted as a sort of au pair, and Mohan, who fulfilled any handyman duties required while my Dad was away with work.
Mohan wasn't to stay with us long, he left under a bit of a cloud after some indiscretion that I wasn't given the details of. Sheila, however, stayed with us for all the time we were out there, and became almost a member of the family.
After a couple of months it must have become obvious that the area we were living in wasn't ideal, and we moved to another house in a different suburb of the city. This area seemed a lot more gentrified and safer. The house was adjacent to a police station (which pretty much guaranteed low crime) and near to the city's planetarium and main television station.
The house itself was a young kid's dream. It's wide waxed floors were ideal for racing toy cars, building elaborate Lego models, and for generally ruining socks by sliding about on. It was full of interesting nooks and crannies for me and my brother to play in, and we soon started to treat the entire place like a giant climbing frame. I worked out that if I climbed out of the bathroom window I could shimmy along a ledge and, via a series of ledges and footholds, climb up up onto the roof.
One day, while Mum was away shopping, I decided to share my mountaineering prowess with my brother. Knowing that we'd get in trouble if found out, Sheila was given strict instructions not to tell Mum what we were up to. For some reason we'd got it in to our heads that Sheila was on "our side" against our parents.
A few days later Mum sat us down and told us that the policemen at the station across the road had spotted us climbing about on the roof, and told her to make us stop. We were terrified at the thought of the police getting involved, and never climbed up onto the roof again.
Of course, several years later I found out it was
Sheila that had told Mum, out of sensible concern for our wellbeing. She'd made sure Mum used the police story, because although she was terrified at the thought of us falling, she was also afraid we'd stop being friends with her!
As well as swimming virtually every day, I was an avid cyclist. Damon, John and I used to cycle all over the city. One day we decided to set out on an expedition to the brand new parliament building, part of the new administrative capital that was being built outside Colombo. It was quite a trek, through mainly undeveloped countryside, and it took the best part of the morning to get there.
The parliament building itself had been built in the centre of an lake, which was currenly in the middle of nowhere as the rest of the new capital was yet to be built. It was aparently deserted, but there were scary-looking guards all around it, so we sat at the entrance and ate our sandwiches.
One of the sandwich wrappers got caught by the wind and sailed off towards the parliament building. Using the tactic that we'd worked out previously (basically that young boys in a foreign land can get away with anything if their hair is blonde-ish and they look innocent enough) we strolled up to one of the guards and asked permission to get our sandwich bag back.
Which is how I got to have a sneaky look around the Sri Lankan parliament building.
On the way back we stopped in a grubby looking cafe by the side of the road, hoping to buy something to drink. It was deserted apart from the owner who served us warm Cokes, and an elderly Sri Lankan who sat beaming at us as we drank. The sight of three white kids out biking on their own miles from anywhere must have seemed quite strange to him.
As we got up to leave he stood up and, voice cracking with pride, sung us the entire British national anthem. I'm not sure why, perhaps he wanted to show us how much he admired the old colonial power, perhaps it was the only English he knew. Whatever, it was oddly humbling, and one of the strangest things I ever experienced as a boy.
Next:
Becky, The Wilderness YearsLabels: sri lanka
Thanks for playing :>)
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